Belgium – More Than Beer & Chocolate

Our original plan was to go to Strasbourg to see the world-famous Christmas Markets, but after we realized the journey was nearly 8 hours one way, it was time to implement “Plan B”elgium. Fabien has never been and I can’t say the country was on my list of places to see before I die, but no doubt there would be some fun things to do and see.

The Roadster

Therefore, the Thursday before Christmas we hopped in our little European roadster, “Papi Rene’s Clio” and headed north. After a quick stop in Lille to spend the afternoon, we were greeted in Brussels with Parisian style traffic. It took us 2 hours to go 3 miles. In typical European fashion, all of the metro, bus and tramway workers were on strike just in time to cause enough holiday chaos and have their demands met the next day. Our GPS joined them in the strike leaving us totally lost in the city. Fortunately, we were going so slow, there was enough time to stop and ask several people if we were headed in the right direction. A great test of my french speaking and listening skills!

Eventually, we found the apartment we rented through Airbnb. This was the first time we had used the service, but if you’re not familiar, you should definitely check it out. Basically, you rent a room or apartment from a person. It can be anything from pull out couch, a private room or your own apartment. This is a great way to travel in Europe as it helps keep costs low and gives you a chance to live like a local. In Brussels, a crappy downtown hotel room would have cost us at least $125 a night, but instead, we got our own, nice downtown apartment for $60. Not to mention, the host gave great recommendations on places to see and eat. All around, a win-win.

Saint Michael Cathedral

Our host alerted us that Brussels is more beautiful at night so we were eager to head out and visit immediately. We walked a few blocks and around every corner were surprised to find something more visually stunning than the previous block. The Belgians have the most architecturally beautiful cathedrals and know how to make a grand display of them with lights, music and sparkles. In Liz Broad’s, Travelogged website, she declares Brussels to have one of the most spectacular Christmas decoration displays in the world and so far it is the most mesmerizing I have ever seen. Here is a video of the show at La Grand Place. Honestly, I think it will go in one of my top 5 favorite travel moments.

After leisurely walking around La Grand Place and seeing other street spectacles, we popped into the restaurant our host recommended for a typical Belgian cuisine – mussels, fries and beer. I can’t say I’m in love with the combination, but “when in Rome…”

Post dinner we stumbled on an amazing Christmas Market. It was the biggest and best I have seen to date. The rhythm was gift shop, gift shop, bar, gift shop, gift shop, bar. Works for me.

Famous (and tiny) Manneken Pis. Translation – Pissing Man Statue

The next day, we woke up early and visited the city’s shopping street, the Manneken Pis and the spectacular Palace. From there we hopped in the car and drove an hour north to the picturesque city of Bruges. Famous for their canals, bridges and chocolate, being in the city is a tourists dream. All the buildings, streets and shops were perfectly cute and we spent the afternoon walking around with no destination or agenda. Before heading back to Brussels, we made another quick stop in Gents for a view of the square and their beautifully lit churches. I hate to say this, but the Belgians churches blow Frances out of the water. Sorry guys.

Bruges

 

 

All and all, my first impression of Belgium was fantastic. While I’m no expert on Europe, I view it as a laid back and underrated country. Also, a tad easier on the pocketbook than France, but what is saved will just end up spent on chocolate and beer.

 

The French Visa

“Congratulations, Stacie! You have been formally accepted to the Universite d’Orleans Institut de Francais.” Yay! When I received this letter, I exhaled and naively assumed my days of jumping through hoops were over and I could now focus my energy on the end goal – learning the french language.

“Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha”, said the French Embassy.

I thought all I needed was a little visa for study’s and based on the fact I am married to a citizen of their country, I might even get a little special treatment. First, I discovered I must make an appointment and have an interview at the nearest French embassy located in Atlanta. After I recovered from that aneurysm, I conceded and snapped up the earliest possible appointment-1 month later. Next, I began researching the requirements, which were filled with many gray areas. However, after 20 phone calls, a snarky email and being told (in English) that “the Embassy does not answer questions in English,”, Fabien (not me) received a call back from a disgruntled diplomat who advised him of the requirements for his wifes visa. So, like a good little documentor, I collected letters from my in-laws, bank statements, pay stubs, university diplomas, evidence of insurance coverage, marriage certificates, etc. for my appointment on Monday, December 12th.

The night before, I drove through the mountains, in the dark, to Atlanta to stay at a shady La Quinta Inn thinking it would all be worth it when the Consulate welcomed me to France and thanked me for choosing to study in their country. You’re welcome! Que the laughs again.

I was not denied at my interview, but was told, by the football shaped woman, that I did not qualify for the visa and she gave me several reasons why.  I named the person at their office who advised Fabien of the requirements and I provided documentation over and above what they were asking. She then reminded me of the Parisian motto: “Not my problem”. Stunned, furious and confused, I left the office in tears and drove 4 hours back to Nashville.

When I returned home, I feverishly research and reinforced what I already knew – she was wrong. At 1am, I wrote a scathing email to the Consulate and almost immediately receive a response that they would see me the next day. I was hesitant to spend another 8 hours driving only to walk away even more furious and hating France. At the crack of dawn, I called, demanded to speak with the man who emailed me and asked for his reassurance, which he (sort of) gave to me. So, I hopped in the car at 5am and drove through the mountain fog, to Atlanta…..again. 6 hours later, I was driving back to Nashville, visa in hand. Turns out, there was a mistake, the football shaped woman did not know what she was talking about and since they felt so guilty, they issued it on the spot.

Should you ever find yourself applying for a visa, it goes without saying, but it is so important to know your visa backwards and forwards. When I applied for a chinese visa, I researched the requirements so throughly that I received my visa even before Fabien, who had an attorney assisting him. However, with the french visa, I simply relied on what I was told my the embassy. One would think that would be enough, but you must confirm, reconfirm and know the requirements inside and out. Had I approached the french visa as the chinese, I would have been successful on the first attempt. But, then what fun would that have been?

After all was said and done, even though it was a lot of stress, work and miles on the car, the embassy’s mistake worked in my favor as it normally takes 3 weeks of processing time. In my opinion, the entire process was France testing my sanity. But most likely it was the Universe playing a game of “how bad do you want it?” Whatever the  reason – I am officially a recipient of a French visa.

Bonjour Y’all

Our new house in Smyrna

As most of you already know on Friday, Fabien and I are on our way to, what feels like another country, Nashville, Tennessee. Of course, we are very sad to leave all of you great people behind, but we are not in the habit of ignoring adventure and opportunity. Needless to say, life has been chaotic, but everything has fallen into place nicely. Our house in Michigan rented after 3 days of being on the market and we quickly found a house in the quaint town of Smyrna, just 5 minutes from where Fabien will be working.

And because Fabien & I don’t have enough going on, we have both decided now is the perfect time for me to finally learn to speak french fluently. As of last week, I have officially been accepted to the University of Orleans for their intensive, immersion french language program. This means, I will be spending January – May in Orleans, France taking an 18 hour per week class and living with Fabien’s parents in the village of St. Cyr en Val (pop. 3,251). I am really looking forward to tackling the language, spending time with his family (as 30+ of them live in the village), and experiencing all that Europe has to offer (between classes, of course). Sadly, this particular journey is one I will be taking on my own as Fabien will be working and getting us settled into living in the south.

When we were in Asia last year, I really enjoyed keeping in touch with all of you through my blog, therefore, I have given “Stacie in Asia” a European make over. The new site is located at www.stacieswanderlust.com. Like before, you can subscribe and posts will be emailed to you at a frequency of your choosing.

As for the French Wedding Festivities, they will be held on July 7th, 2012 in St. Cyr en Val. Let me know if you are interested and I can give you more details.

While this is a bitter sweet time, we truly appreciate the support of all our friends and family. The past year has been so amazing for us and we are truly grateful to have all of you in our lives. :)

The door to visit in France or Tennessee is wide open. Lots of love to “y’all”!

-Stacie & Fabien