Tag: El Camino de Santiago de Compostela

4 Days to Pamplona

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First Pilgrim sighting in Bordeaux

Updated with photos May 7, 2012.

My long day of travel was rather uneventful. I saw my first pilgrim in Bordeaux and knew he was headed towards Santiago because of the scallop shell attached to his backpack which nearly all pilgrims, including myself, carry. When I arrived in Bayonne the other walkers trickled in and eventually we all boarded a little train to St. Jean Pied de Port. You could tell that everyone was really excited. I began chatting with a father daughter duo from Washington DC. When we finally pulled into St. Jean, it was a mad dash to the pilgrims office with me leading the pack. Good thing because my quickness and ability to speak french got me one of the last 4 beds in the municipal alberge (hostel). Eventually I was joined by the DC duo, Audrey and Jim, and a German guy named Franz. Enter my Camino family.

Adorable St. Jean Pied de Port

The door to El Camino

The arrival of pilgrims…

Honestly, Day 1 is too complicated to describe in a short paragraph so I’ll have to tell that at a later time. But what I will say is that it was an experience that has left Audrey, Jim, Franz and I with a special bond. (Updated May 8, 2012. Read about Day 1 here.)

Franz & I starting out Day 2

So, skipping ahead to Day 2 of walking which started from Roncesvalles with our target being Larrasoana. The scenery was beautiful- rivers, mountains, farms, forest and 500-year-old stone bridges. While Audrey and I walked and talked, we eventually were able to laugh about the previous days events which was a good sign. This particular day was 25km and we were all pretty whipped when we arrived in Larrasoana after 9 hours on the road. So you can imagine our frustration when the grumpy hostel hostess told us she only had 3 beds. Audrey, Franz and I took them and Jim headed down to the nicer, more expensive private hostel. When we walked into the sleeping room, we all decided it was a shit hole but that it would suffice for one night. Eventually we headed out to the only restaurant in town to pay 8 euros for a frozen pizza and to get yelled at by the tired and stressed woman who was trying to run the place all by herself. After we filled our tummies, we returned to our hostel and slept pretty good considering there where 40 others in the same room half of them were snoring. Thank God for ear plugs.

Day 2 – Mountains,

forests,

and rivers.

Day 3 of walking was even more beautiful because we finally got some good weather. Audrey and I snapped pictures constantly and continued to talk and laugh. We were having such a great time together and it was a shame because my plan was to stay in Pamplona for 2 nights. The 3 of them needed to continue on since they were planning to walk the entire 800km to Santiago. Frantz told me he was really sad to see me go because the 4 of us made a great team. When he said this we both got a little choked up. I was really sad to leave them but my body needed rest and I wanted to explore Pamplona. So by 2pm we arrived in the city and I splurged on a hotel. Then we all agreed to meet for one last dinner together.

A taste of Day 3 scenery

Ready, Set, Vamos

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To say I am fired up (but equally nervous) for Friday’s Spain departure is an understatement. While I’ve done a fair amount of traveling, I’ve never totally flown by the seat of my pants like this. Really, the only part of the trip that is planned is my train ticket to the little village of St. Jean Pied de Port which is the starting point of El Camino de Santiago (the Frances Way).

After paying 62€, my one-way ticket goes like this: Orléans, Tours, Bordeaux (via the TGV which I’ve never taken before), Bayonne and finally St. Jean Pied de Port. I leave at 7am and should arrive around 4pm if all goes as planned. Yes, know it’s a long day, but I’ve never really traveled by train and I felt like this was just another part of the Camino experience.

I have spent all week preparing my backpack so it’s under the 6kg (about 13lbs) recommended for my body size.

First test run: 7.8kg (17lbs)
Second test run – 7.4kg (16lbs.)
Third test run – 6.1kg (13lbs.), which will just have to do because I’m not sure I could walk naked.

So, here’s what I got: 2 pairs of pants, 2 dry fit t-shirts, 1 tank top, 1 rain/polar jacket combo, 1 poncho, 1 pair of walking shoes, 1 pair of hiking sandals, 3 pairs of socks, 2 sports bras, 4 pairs of underwear, camera, iPod, cell phone, Kindle, 1 towel, 1 fancy sleeping bag, 1 hotel size shampoo, soap, conditioner, small flashlight, sleeping mask and ear plugs for my fellow pilgrim snorers, spanish phrase book, few first aid supplies, 3 individual packs of emergency instant coffee, mascara, bug spray and mace (a little gift from Corinne).

One big question mark is the weather. For the past few weeks, it’s been nothing but rain. The reason I am worried about this is the whole fact that I’ve never actually climbed a mountain before, which is what you do the first day from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles (about 25km or 15 miles). This part is known as the most dangerous section should it be snowy (unlikely) or foggy (maybe). So, if that is the case, I will forgo the experience of crossing the Pyrenees and take a bus to Roncesvalles.  As of now, it looks like the rain will continue through the weekend, but after that, it’s clear and sunny skies for a couple of days. So, what I’m hoping and praying for is that the weeks of rain will turn the Spanish country side into a beautiful shade of green, like this:

A little taste of what my first day of hiking will look like.

Other than everything above, I have a guide-book and money, which I’ve found speaks wonders in tricky situations. Otherwise, I’ll just have to have faith that St. James will take care of the rest and lead me in the right direction.

Until my next internet connection, Adios!

If you’d like to read more about the Camino, check out this site: http://www.caminosantiagodecompostela.com/

Why I’m Kicking Italy to the Curb

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I couldn’t get motivated to plan my Spring Break trip to Italy. The thought of figuring out train schedules, flights, hostels, sights, etc. all made me want to take a big nap.  “What’s wrong with me? It’s Italy for God sake!”

So, I started thinking maybe this was a sign that I’m not suppose to go to Italy.   Then an idea popped in my head – “El Camino de Santiago de Compostela”. The moment it entered my brain, it would not leave and kept giving me those wanderlust butterflies.  Within a few hours I was online googling and sending a text message to my friend, Holly, who has experienced “El Camino” twice. Within a couple more hours, I was obsessed and had already looked up train schedules, maps, books, weather and rented the movie, The Way. Italy, who?

I know what your asking yourself – What the heck is “El Camino de Santiago de Compostela”?
The “El Camino de Santiago de Compostela” (known in English as “the Way of St. James” or in French as “le Chemin de St. Jacques de Compostelle”) is a group of paths, throughout Europe that people (pilgrims) have been walking for thousands of years.  These paths all lead to the amazingly beautiful cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain which is dedicated to the Apostle James. The path I will be taking is conveniently called “The French Way” and starts in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, 800km (500 miles) east of Santiago de Compostela.  This particular path is also said to be the most important Christian pilgrimage in the Western world.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Who is St. James, anyway?
You know, it’s hard to say. Every website I found had information that didn’t match the previous. So, here’s what is consistent:

  • He was a BFF’s of Jesus and one of his first apostles.
  • James is the patron Saint of Spain, so, of course, the Spaniards adore him.
  • He was a pretty good fisherman.
  • JC himself gave St. James and his brother, John, (also an Apostle) the nickname, “Sons of Thunder”, because of their “fiery tempers”.
  • James was the first martyr in the name of Jesus. After his death his body was sent to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. There is a rumor that the body never made it, but, nonetheless, the city has a shrine (the cathedral) dedicated to him.

Okay, I know what you’re thinking, “Stacie, who are you kidding? A religious pilgrimage? You? Seriously?”
I know, I know, I know, let me explain.  The “El Camino” is not just for the religious.  Along the way, I will meet people who are walking for a variety of reasons, purposes, goals, causes and probably some people who are doing it because they feel like it.  The only requirement for the El Camino de Santiago de Compostela is a purpose.

So, really, what does this mean?

The French Way

Each day, I plan to walk, approximately a half marathon, more or less, through the mountains, farmlands and villages of Northern Spain. Unfortunately, it normally takes about a month to complete the entire path and I only have 15 days to spare. So, I will start in St. Jean Pied de Port with a goal of making it to Burgos, which is a little more than 1/3 of the way.   At some point in my life, I would like to return to Burgos and finish in Santiago de Compostela, but we’ll see.  Remember the Ralph Waldo Emerson quote, “Life’s a journey, not a destination.”

I will follow the shells throughout Spain.

I will carry my clothes, sleeping gear, toiletries, etc. in my backpack (weighing no more than 14lbs). In St. Jean Pied de Port, I will be given a “Pilgrim Passport” which allows me to sleep, eat and shower in the (mostly Church run) pilgrim only hostels. The path is indicated by little arrows and shells throughout the Spanish countryside.  I know.  This might be the smartest, coolest and/or stupidest thing I’ve ever done.

Note to Mom: I’ll have a cell phone for emergency purposes and also plan to update this blog along the way (internet connection permitting).

And most important, the purpose…
I’m not sure when I’ll have the opportunity for something like this in the near future. A voyage like the “El Camino” seems (nearly) impossible with a job and kids. So, I’m taking this last opportunity to be a bit of a free spirit, unplanned, adventurous and to hopefully satisfy (or tame) those little wanderlust butterflies that are constantly floating around in my tummy.

And for your viewing pleasure, here is the trailer to the film, The Way, which takes place on the El Camino de Santiago de Compostela.

A final note to Mom: Don’t pay any attention to that part about the kid dying. They did that for dramatic effect.