Category: Travel

Laughing to Santiago 

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As I walked through Ponferrada snapping pics and not paying attention, some voices screamed and motioned for me to come back. I was headed in the wrong direction and a group of fellow pilgrims came to my rescue. They were Joe (Washington DC), Maria (Sweden) and Kevin (Vancouver). I thanked them and we all chatted our way out of the city before Joe and Maria stopped for a rest.

We’ve since realized the hilarity in Kevin, a young, Jewish man traveling to Santiago with a Joseph and Mary (of sorts). He even slept in a stable one night along the Camino. Then I wondered, who might I represent in this story? I’d like to think a wise woman, but Kevin insists that I’m the ass. Especially since I promised to pull him in a cart should he hurt himself between here and Santiago.

So, for the next couple of days, Kevin and I would run into each other on the path or in the villages. Then somewhere between Vega de Valcarce and Alto do Polo, we joined forces and haven’t stopped walking and talking; walking and not talking; talking and not walking; and not talking and not walking. This will make sense to those of you who have experienced the Camino.

More than anything, we’ve been laughing our way through Spain. We are on the same Camino groove. No plans. No reservations. Definitely no early rising. Lots of talk about Beyoncé, lip sync battles and some fellow burner* pilgrims we simply can not get enough of.

The “no plans” rule was bent one day when I was intrigued by an alternative route going through Samos where there was the opportunity to stay in a the western world’s largest monastery. My guide book described it as, “one long vaulted space full of pain and misery and snoring and laughter.” All of which happened, especially when Kevin and I got the uncontrollable giggles over some happenings with the burners*. It was probably one of those times you had to be there, but we were both laughing so hard and could not even look at each other. Since then, slap happy is how most nights end.

Between the fits of laughter, we visited the monastery and attended a mass with vespers. The monastery’s wiki page will best describe the happenings, so here’s that.

For your viewing enjoyment, here are a few pics:

*Those who attend Burning Man.

Camino Magic

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The El Camino de Santiago is a magical place where the coolest things happen. If you’ve been here, I don’t need to provide you with proof.

But chances are, you haven’t experienced Camino magic, so let me share a few fun stories.

Somewhere between Rabanal Del Camino and Foncebadon, I ran out of water in my Camelbak. This is a section contained a 400 meter climb, but I wasn’t too worried considering I already drank a couple of liters. However, I did say to myself that I’d really prefer to have a bit more on hand. 30 seconds after I said this, I turned a mountain bend and there sat several bottles of water, with a little box in front for donations. Proof that often we just need to ask and we will receive!

The next day, I woke up at the usual 6:30 a.m. and laid in bed for a few minutes to check Facebook. A deceased friend’s mother and sister commented on a post, saying that perhaps my friend is joining me on the Camino. Two hours later, as I walked over the mountain, I looked up and saw my friends name carved into a cross. Instant goosebumps!

The same afternoon, I walked into Molinseca in search of a private room to treat myself. On the Main Street I crossed a sign promoting a single room for 25€. I entered and was happy to hear it was still available. However, the proprietor asked if it was a problem that I had the entire house to myself since he and his family where leaving in a few minutes to visit his father for the night. After four nights of snorers, I welcomed the quiet and assured him it was not a problem at all. He lead me to my room, which included a queen sized bed, bathtub, TV and adorable terrace. Then, he instructed me to lock the door in the morning and drop the keys in the mailbox. Score!

Housesitting in Spain

Looking forward to more Camino miracles as I continue down the way.

Camino Danger

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When I tell people about my hike on the El Camino de Santiago, many people think I’m nuts to walk across a country following arrows, alone, especially being a woman. Yes, nuts is a good way to describe the Camino. But the second reaction is usually one of worry, followed by a, “Isn’t that dangerous?” And again the answer is, yes.

People have died, usually in the mountains after unpredictable weather. It is rare, but it happens. Many get injured after overusing their bodies outside normal activities. Most get epic blisters. On my last Camino, I experienced light degrees of all of the above.

However, this Camino has presented a new set of dangers, most of which involve self destruction and nothing to do with the actual Camino.

Danger #1: Bunk beds. Yup, I very gracefully ate it while descending a top bunk before I even started the Camino. It took a couple days for the bruise to reach its current glory. Then on the first day of walking, my foot hurt a bit from the unsuccessful dismount. Fortunately, that has gone away. I’ve also been lucky enough to get bottom bunks the last few days. However, I have managed to hit my head Every. Single. Day.

Danger #2: Hiking poles. Yesterday, I thought I was being cool with my hiking poles and pretty much tripped over them, almost landing on my face. Thank God, no one was around. Can you imagine the story if I’d hurt or broken something? Bonus danger: be careful when sitting down with extended poles in your hand. You’re libel to bop your head like I have (several times).

Danger #3: Hot Water. I prayed there would be hot water as I stepped in the shower. I turned it on, draped the head over my right shoulder (ugh, European showers) so the water hit my chest. It was warm. Then someone flushed the toilet. It took 1/2 second for it to turn scalding, nearly burning the flesh off my chest. I’m still surprised I don’t have a blister.

And if that wasn’t enough, here are a couple Homer Simpson moments:

Doh #1: For hours I’d been trying to a shower, but there was only one for 30 of us. So, I grabbed my stuff and decided to sit next to the door. I tried the door, knocked, no one answered, but I thought I heard some rustling. After 15 minutes, I knocked and tried the door again. It opened and no one was there. Doh! I told this story to a guy from South Africa who laughed hysterically and promised to remember this story always. :/

Doh #2: I have excellent equipment this time around. Today was the first rainy day, and I simply pulled out my backpack rain cover only to have my Camelbak spring a leak and soak my clean, dry, change of clothes. Doh!

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my mishaps.

Sincerely,
The Camino Klutz