Category: Cancer

Camino Danger

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When I tell people about my hike on the El Camino de Santiago, many people think I’m nuts to walk across a country following arrows, alone, especially being a woman. Yes, nuts is a good way to describe the Camino. But the second reaction is usually one of worry, followed by a, “Isn’t that dangerous?” And again the answer is, yes.

People have died, usually in the mountains after unpredictable weather. It is rare, but it happens. Many get injured after overusing their bodies outside normal activities. Most get epic blisters. On my last Camino, I experienced light degrees of all of the above.

However, this Camino has presented a new set of dangers, most of which involve self destruction and nothing to do with the actual Camino.

Danger #1: Bunk beds. Yup, I very gracefully ate it while descending a top bunk before I even started the Camino. It took a couple days for the bruise to reach its current glory. Then on the first day of walking, my foot hurt a bit from the unsuccessful dismount. Fortunately, that has gone away. I’ve also been lucky enough to get bottom bunks the last few days. However, I have managed to hit my head Every. Single. Day.

Danger #2: Hiking poles. Yesterday, I thought I was being cool with my hiking poles and pretty much tripped over them, almost landing on my face. Thank God, no one was around. Can you imagine the story if I’d hurt or broken something? Bonus danger: be careful when sitting down with extended poles in your hand. You’re libel to bop your head like I have (several times).

Danger #3: Hot Water. I prayed there would be hot water as I stepped in the shower. I turned it on, draped the head over my right shoulder (ugh, European showers) so the water hit my chest. It was warm. Then someone flushed the toilet. It took 1/2 second for it to turn scalding, nearly burning the flesh off my chest. I’m still surprised I don’t have a blister.

And if that wasn’t enough, here are a couple Homer Simpson moments:

Doh #1: For hours I’d been trying to a shower, but there was only one for 30 of us. So, I grabbed my stuff and decided to sit next to the door. I tried the door, knocked, no one answered, but I thought I heard some rustling. After 15 minutes, I knocked and tried the door again. It opened and no one was there. Doh! I told this story to a guy from South Africa who laughed hysterically and promised to remember this story always. :/

Doh #2: I have excellent equipment this time around. Today was the first rainy day, and I simply pulled out my backpack rain cover only to have my Camelbak spring a leak and soak my clean, dry, change of clothes. Doh!

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my mishaps.

Sincerely,
The Camino Klutz

The Road Less Travelled 

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My few days in Switzerland were absolutely fabulous. They were comprised of dinner at a fromagerie, with, my friend Julia, who I met in China and traveled to with to Bali. Saturday cheese fondue in Gruyere and then Lausanne for a walk around the lake. Sunday was my birthday and we spent the day walking through vineyards along Lake Geneva and dinner in Montereaux. Monday, I woke to a beautiful blue sky and was finally able to see Mont Blanc from my bedroom. Just in the knick of time since my flight to Madrid left at noon.

A surreal day on Lake Geneva

I arrived in Madrid to a perfect Spainish atmosphere – warm with a beautiful blue sky and the faint scent of cigarettes. My plan was to prepare for the Camino by mailing my suitcase ahead and buying some provisions. However, it was a holiday in Spain and nothing was open, so I walked around the city for a few hours and turned in early so I could leave bright and early for the train to Leon.

High and sight, I should’ve done a little planning and less sightseeing in Madrid, because when I got off the train, I had not a clue what to do and where to go. I needed to mail my bag, get some groceries and find a place to stay. Had I planned, these things would not have taken me several hours. But, once I completed them, I grabbed dinner, visited the city a little and went to the pilgrims mass, not that I understood anything. My spainish is non-existent thanks to the last four years of french. However, there was a sweet older man, who was so excited I was there. He walked me and a few other pilgrims around the cathedral, blabbering away in spainish that none of us understood. In the end he shook our hands and wished us all a “Buen Camino”.

The first night in the pilgrim albergue was not very good. I got the last bed in a room, which meant I was on the top bunk. I almost walked into the room and said, “Can we agree that if you’ve had more than two abdominal surgeries in two years, you deserve a bottom bunk?” And if anyone has me beat, I’d lay down my cancer card. But, the Camino doesn’t work like that. Then, I had a hard time falling asleep. This was mostly due to excitement, but it was also hot and the others in my room where going to the bathroom every five minutes. Then, most of the room was awake at 6 am, rustling their plastic bags and packing up to get out the door. So, after five hours of poor, restless sleep, I conceded and headed out as the sun was rising.

I’m glad I did, because it was quite poetic to see the sun waking up behind the cathedral and gracing the old monuments with a perfect light.

Sunrise behind the Leon cathedral


Getting out of the city area was typically ugly and I opted to take a longer,
alternative, more scenic view. It was at the fork that I made my first Camino Amiga, Margie from San Francisco, who broke away from the two friends she came with for the road less traveled, rather than that which was fastest. We talked and walked for hours and at lunch time, we easily threw together a picnic with the items each of us had. Canned chicken, cheese, nuts, fruit and chocolate. Not too bad of a meal for being on the side of a rural road, in the middle of nowhere Spain.

Eventually, we arrived in a little village of Villar de Mazarife. The first house in the village was an adorable albergue promoting a (rare) vegetarian menu. Bed, dinner, hot shower, wifi and breakfast for 21€. Done. Margie opted for the more expensive private hotel, since she pretty much had it with snorers and early risers.

The wonderful albergue in Villar de Mazarife

I settled into my bottom bunk (three cheers) next to, of course, a couple French guys (Man, I just can’t escape them). After an amazing dinner of salad, pumpkin soup, veggie paella and a crepe, I tucked myself in for a solid seven hours of sleep.

Story of my life… (:

Appreciating France

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The last days in Paris were really fun. I dragged JB around to several tourist traps he avoids like the plague. 
JB: “What is that? It’s so nice.”

Me: “Um, that’s the Eiffel Tower, JB.”

Ok, I’m exaggerating, but not too much. 

JB being a tourist

But more than anything, we laughed and joked around a lot. Blessed with beautiful weather, we made my Fitbit happy by walking everywhere, checking off Parc Buttes Chaumont, Jardin du Luxembourg, Notre Dame, Montparnasse Tower, the Louvre, Jardin de Tuileries, the Eiffel Tour and I’m sure I’m missing some stuff. 

Parc Buttes Chaurmont

Busting out the selfie stick at Notre Dame

The Louvre

Springtime in Paris

My last day in Paris was spent kicking around alone where I visited the National Library (nerd), Shakespeare and Company, the Grand Mosque and Jardin des Plantes. 

Jardin des Plantes

In the afternoon, it was time to head to Orleans to see the “belle famille” (translation, beautiful family), which is so much nicer to say than “in-laws”. On the train, I rested my forehead against the glass and watched Paris transform into the countryside. Spring is such a beautiful time in France as many of the fields resemble a fluorescent yellow and green quilt. I spent the entire train ride with the sun in my face, taking mental pictures. I also took some time to appreciate my fun, busy days in Paris and the fact that I’m here after I wasn’t sure I’d ever be again while I was sick. I was bursting with happiness, appreciation and gratitude. 

Orleans, and specifically the adorable little village of St. Cyr en Val, is a third home for me. All the neighbors are brothers and sisters of my “beautiful mother”, so the moment they heard the car coming down the path, there was a non-stop stream of visitors. 

Good timing and weather were on my side again because Thursday was Ascension Day, which is a day of prayer that also exists on the US (but without the day off work). The whole family came over and showered me with desserts, gifts, kisses and proclamations of joy for my good health. Fabien’s grandmother and grandfather spent several minutes telling me how they and the priest of the church in St. Cyr en Val pray for me constantly. The priest has even spoken of me at mass, which is very moving to hear. I appreciate so much everyone who has prayed and thought of me during the last couple of years. 

Friday evening, the “beautiful family” and I headed to Chartres for dinner and to view the illuminated cathedral. I’ve become a bit immune to European cathedrals because they start to look the same. However, I think this one will stand out in my memory forever.

Of course, without saying, the architecture is incredible. But, what I found most impressive was the stained glass, which houses the largest 13th century collection in the world. I can see why it was one of the world’s first UNESCO sites. The glass is so important to the French that it was removed and hidden during both World Wars. Just next to the cathedral is home to an international school of stained glass. Who knew such a place existed. This made me think of my grandfather whose stained glass creations were the source battle when he passed away. He would’ve loved Notre Dame de Chartres. 

Before the illumination began, I spotted my first sign of the Camino on the sidewalk and shortly after, some English speakers in hiking clothes. As it turns out, they were Canadians who are walking from Paris to Santiago via Chartres. That’s a long way. To put it in perspective, they won’t even be in Spain by the time I arrive in Santiago around June 2nd. 

When it became dark, the cathedral was lit up with mesmerizing animated images set to music. I tried to snap some pictures but then stopped knowing the photos would be unjustifiable. Plus, like many things on this voyage, this was something to be appreciated and experienced in the moment and not behind a smartphone screen.